Lord Handbook of Yarn Production

Technology, Science and Economics
1. Auflage 2003
ISBN: 978-1-85573-865-2
Verlag: Elsevier Science & Techn.
Format: EPUB
Kopierschutz: 6 - ePub Watermark

E-Book, Englisch, 504 Seiten

Reihe: Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles

Written by one of the world's leading experts, Handbook of yarn production: technology, science and economics is an authoritative and comprehensive guide to textile yarn manufacturing. The book is designed to allow readers to explore the subject in various levels of detail. The first three chapters provide an overview of yarn production, products and key principles. The major part of the book then reviews in detail the production processes for short-staple, long-staple and filament yarns.There are also chapters on quality control and the economics of staple-yarn production.The final part of the book consists of a series of appendices which provide in-depth analysis of key topics with detailed technical data and worked examples which is an invaluable reference in itself for anyone concerned with the behaviour, performance and economics of a textile mill.Handbook of yarn production: technology, science and economics is a standard work for both yarn manufacturers and those researching and studying in this important area of the textile industry. - A practical and authoritative new handbook for yarn manufacturing - Shows how problems can arise and how to deal with them - Includes invaluable technical data, calculations, worked examples and case studies

Autoren/Hrsg.

Lord, Peter R.

Inhaltsverzeichnis

1;Front Cover;2
2;Handbook of Yarn Production: Technology, Science and Economics;3
3;Copyright Page;4
4;Table of Contents;5
5;Acknowledgments;9
6;Chapter 1. Review of yarn production;10
6.1;1.1 Historical basis;10
6.2;1.2 Present day conditions;17
6.3;1.3 Future of the means of textile production;18
6.4;1.4 Modern production systems;19
6.5;References;26
7;Chapter 2. Textile products and fiber production;27
7.1;2.1 Textile materials (fabrics, fibers, and filaments);27
7.2;2.2 Natural fibers (types and production);31
7.3;2.3 Man-made fibers (polymer extrusion and yarn production);47
7.4;References;63
8;Chapter 3. Common principles;65
8.1;3.1 Introduction;65
8.2;3.2 Twist in strands;65
8.3;3.3 Twist insertion;70
8.4;3.4 Confined and non-confined systems;76
8.5;3.5 Twist evenness;77
8.6;3.6 Tension control;78
8.7;3.7 Drawing;79
8.8;3.8 Consequences of roller errors on the textile product;85
8.9;3.9 Control of irregular flow in drawing or drafting;86
8.10;3.10 Doubling;92
8.11;3.11 Effects of shear;93
8.12;3.12 Integration of sub-processes;95
8.13;References;96
9;Chapter 4. Filament yarn production;97
9.1;4.1 Introduction;97
9.2;4.2 Texturing filament yarns;98
9.3;4.3 Real twist texturing;99
9.4;4.4 False twist texturing;101
9.5;4.5 Draw-texturing;111
9.6;4.6 Stuffer box texturing;113
9.7;4.7 Air-jet texturing;115
9.8;4.8 Other texturing techniques;119
9.9;4.9 Industrial filaments;122
9.10;4.10 Silk filaments and staple yarns;122
9.11;4.11 Morphology and dyeing;123
9.12;References;123
10;Chapter 5. Carding and prior processes for short-staple fibers;125
10.1;5.1 Introduction;125
10.2;5.2 Opening line;127
10.3;5.3 Bale preparation;128
10.4;5.4 The first stage of blending and opening;130
10.5;5.5 The process of disintegration of fiber clumps;131
10.6;5.6 Condensation;132
10.7;5.7 The process of cleaning;134
10.8;5.8 Intimate blending;138
10.9;5.9 Fiber flow;142
10.10;5.10 Carding;145
10.11;5.11 Waste control;158
10.12;5.12 Safety;162
10.13;References;163
11;Chapter 6. Sliver preparation;164
11.1;6.1 Introduction;164
11.2;6.2 Drawframe;164
11.3;6.3 Combing;168
11.4;6.4 Creel blending;173
11.5;6.5 An industrial case study;174
11.6;References;176
12;Chapter 7. Short-staple spinning;177
12.1;7.1 Ring spinning;177
12.2;7.2 Open-end spinning;194
12.3;References;212
13;Chapter 8. Long-staple spinning;214
13.1;8.1 Introduction: Effects of lengthening the staple;214
13.2;8.2 Wool fibers and their preparation;215
13.3;8.3 Worsted systems;222
13.4;8.4 The woolen system;229
13.5;8.5 Bast fiber spinning processes;240
13.6;References;241
14;Chapter 9. Post-spinning processes;243
14.1;9.1 Winding;243
14.2;9.2 Yarn joining;254
14.3;9.3 Ply yarns;259
14.4;9.4 Automation;262
14.5;9.5 Two-for-one twisting;264
14.6;9.6 Customer concerns;266
14.7;References;268
15;Chapter 10. Staple systems and modified yarn structures;269
15.1;10.1 Yarns of complex structure;269
15.2;10.2 Processes using modified twist;270
15.3;10.3 Compact spinning;270
15.4;10.4 Air-jet spinning;272
15.5;10.5 Sirospun yarns and process;277
15.6;10.6 Hollow spindle spinning;279
15.7;10.7 Self-twist spinning;280
15.8;10.8 Twisted self-twist yarns and processes;283
15.9;References;284
16;Chapter 11. Quality and quality control;285
16.1;11.1 Quality;285
16.2;11.2 Quality control;287
16.3;11.3 Yarn evenness;300
16.4;11.4 End-breaks and quality;307
16.5;References;309
17;Chapter 12. Economics of staple yarn production;310
17.1;12.1 Yarn economics;310
17.2;12.2 Productivity;312
17.3;12.3 Quality and economics;315
17.4;12.4 Cost minimization;317
17.5;12.5 Operational factors;322
17.6;12.6 International competition;324
17.7;References;325
18;Appendix 1: Calculations I: Elementary theory;326
18.1;A1.1 Yarn and strand numbering systems;326
18.2;A1.2 Yarn diameter;330
18.3;A1.3 Twist multiple calculations (staple spinning);331
18.4;A1.4 Productivity of pre-spinning preparation machinery;333
18.5;A1.5 Ring frame performance;336
18.6;A1.6 Winding performance;336
18.7;A1.7 Rotor spinning machine performance;337
19;Appendix 2: Calculations II: Worked examples;338
19.1;A2.1 Yarn numbering;338
19.2;A2.2 Drafting;339
19.3;A2.3 Belt transmission;341
19.4;A2.4 Gearing;343
19.5;A2.5 Machine speeds;343
19.6;A2.6 Twist calculations;344
19.7;A2.7 Production;345
19.8;A2.8 Texturing;348
20;Appendix 3: Advanced topics I: Air conditioning and utilities;350
20.1;A3.1 Introduction;350
20.2;A3.2 Units;350
20.3;A3.3 Water vapor and steam;351
20.4;A3.4 Humidity;353
20.5;A3.5 Mill environment;355
20.6;References;358
21;Appendix 4: Advanced topics II: Testing of textile materials;359
21.1;A4.1 Divisions in testing;359
21.2;A4.2 Measurements on staple fibers;360
21.3;A4.3 Measurement of linear density of staple yarns;364
21.4;A4.4 Measurement of twist;368
21.5;A4.5 Visual examination of yarns;370
21.6;A4.6 Yarn hairiness in staple yarns;371
21.7;A4.7 Tensile testing of strands;373
21.8;A4.8 Filament yarns;377
21.9;A4.9 Visual tests of fabrics;381
21.10;References;381
22;Appendix 5: Advanced topics III: Staple yarn structures;382
22.1;A5.1 Theoretical yarn structures;382
22.2;A5.2 Actual yarn structures;384
22.3;A5.3 Yarn behavior;390
22.4;References;391
23;Appendix 6: Advanced topics IV: Textured yarn structures;392
23.1;A6.1 Yarn hysteresis;392
23.2;A6.2 Yarn bulk;395
23.3;A6.3 Fiber migration in textured yarns;396
23.4;Reference;397
24;Appendix 7: Advanced topics V: Blending of staple fibers;398
24.1;A7.1 Introduction;398
24.2;A7.2 Bale management;400
24.3;A7.3 Mixing in the blow room;403
24.4;A7.4 Theory of blending capacity;404
24.5;A7.5 Fiber migration and blending;408
24.6;A7.6 Real blend variation;411
24.7;Reference;415
25;Appendix 8: Advanced topics VI: Drafting and doubling;416
25.1;A8.1 Theories of drafting;416
25.2;A8.2 Roller drafting;423
25.3;A8.3 Avalanches in roller drafting;429
25.4;A8.4 Doubling associated with roller drafting;431
25.5;A8.5 Doubling and toothed drafting;434
25.6;References;435
26;Appendix 9: Advanced topics VII: Yarn balloon mechanics;436
26.1;A9.1 General observations;436
26.2;A9.2 A rotating plane balloon … a very simplified case;437
26.3;A9.3 Energy distribution in the balloon;439
26.4;A9.4 Yarn tension gradients;444
26.5;A9.5 The real balloon;445
26.6;A9.6 Balloon collapse;457
26.7;A9.7 Balloons in two-for-one twisting;460
26.8;References;461
27;Appendix 10: Advanced topics VIII: Topics in rotorspinning;462
27.1;A10.1 Brief history of open-end spinning;462
27.2;A10.2 Yarn evenness;464
27.3;A10.3 Toothed drafting;466
27.4;A10.4 Fiber assembly … the formation of wrapper fibers;468
27.5;A10.5 Twist distribution;469
27.6;A10.6 Conclusion;472
27.7;References;472
28;Index;474

Leseproben

1 Review of yarn production
1.1 Historical basis
1.1.1 Historical background [1]
The long reach of history shows how prosperity varies as civilizations have waxed and waned. The course of prosperity has been bumpy and there are dangers in extrapolating the future based on the short-term past. Successive centuries have seen fundamental changes of varying types. Greenwood [2] outlines steps related to yarns and textiles in the first two millennia and points out the extraordinary fineness of the materials that have been made. He also discusses some of the developments that have improved the productivity of the manufacturing systems and reduced the costs over the centuries. The eighteenth century saw a financial revolution, the nineteenth saw the industrial revolution, and the twentieth saw the information revolution. The history of humanity contains many references to textile materials because they were, and still are, part of the fabric of our lives. Consequently, the history of fibers is one of the traceable threads in the story of yarn production. A second thread concerns the extraordinary developments of the industrial revolution. There were gigantic steps in productivity of both people and machines. Another thread concerns the developing economic environment that has surrounded these changes. Thus, let us first make a brief survey of the history of some important fibers. 1.1.2 A brief history of silk
The origin of silk is found only in legend and fable; certainly it was used in the time of Emperor Huang Ti in China in the third millennium BC. Sanskrit literature refers to silk in India in the second century BC and the Old Testament also refers to it. When it percolated to the West, it was as valuable as gold on a weight-to-weight basis. Roman Emperor Justinian tried to monopolize the trade (unsuccessfully), smuggled silk worms to Constantinople (c. ad 550) and started sericulture there. Byzantine silks became world famous. The Moors established sericulture in Spain and so the production of silk spread. It reached northern Europe in the fifteenth century and the western hemisphere in the sixteenth, although it failed at first. However, the strong luster and ability to take brilliant dyes made silk very attractive. The peak of activity was after World War I and by 1919 the price had risen to US$21/1b; that is equivalent to over $1200/1b in the currency of 2003. Once fine man-made fibers entered the market, the price and the demand for silk dropped; but there is still an important market in some areas of the world. Perhaps the early inventors of synthetic fibers were influenced by the knowledge of the manner in which silkworms, spiders, and other creatures extruded filaments. Doubtless, they were also impressed by the extraordinary properties of these naturally extruded fibers. Such inspiration was probably very important in determining the future of fiber production. 1.1.3 A brief history of bast fibers
Bast fibers are derived from the stems of various plants. Cultivated flax [3] probably originated in the Mediterranean region; certainly it was used in prehistoric times. It was found in Stone Age dwellings in Switzerland, the ancient Egyptians used it, and references to it are sprinkled throughout historical writings. It has been used both for its fiber and for its seed. The fiber is used to make linen cloth, and the crushed seed yields linseed oil, long used for the preservation of leather and wood. Until the eighteenth century, linen manufacture was widespread in the domestic industry of European countries. The development of cotton processing and the great inventions of the industrial revolution dealt an almost fatal blow to this erstwhile prevailing industry. Jute fiber was largely unknown in the West until the eighteenth century, but it was in common use in Bengal before then. There was resistance to its use because blending it with hemp or flax was regarded as adulteration. In the nineteenth century, the Dutch government replaced linen coffee bags with jute and this gave an impetus to use it in the West. Research was carried out in Dundee, Scotland, which became a recognized center of yarn production. Also, much of the production was in what are now Pakistan and India. (Strangely, after partition in 1947, India had the jute processing resources, and the bulk of the corresponding agricultural producing sector was in Pakistan: Jute played a prominent role in the development of trade relations between the two countries.) It was attractive because it was strong, bulky, and cheap. However, in more recent times, the increasing use of polypropylene for cotton-bale wrapping, carpet backing, sacking, and other products has decimated the jute industry. Hemp fiber is thought to have originated north of the Himalayas and was well known in China in the second millennium BC. It was brought to the Americas in the sixteenth century and, by the twentieth century, was being grown throughout the world. The plant not only produces fibers but also narcotics. Some species of hemp produce little in the way of narcotics, but many countries make the growing of it illegal for social reasons. 1.1.4 A brief history of wool fibers
The use of wool for clothing dates back to antiquity. Outstanding properties of wrinkle resistance, moisture absorption, warmth, and tendency to felt, have given it a role, not only in apparel, but also in blankets, upholstery, and floor coverings. Babylonia is translated by some as meaning ‘the land of wool’. It is known that the Phoenicians traded wool fabric during the first millennium bc [3]. The Ancient Romans established wool factories to supply their army; the fame of these factories was spread by the travels of Roman soldiers. In Britain, the wool flocks were scattered by the incoming Saxons and the wool trade there then went into decline. The Normans re-established the trade and it developed for a time, although there seems to have been little progress through the dark ages; it was not until after the seventeenth century that structural changes started to occur. After many struggles over restraints in trade, wool was very important in England in the eighteenth century. Spain too was a major producer but its government had enforced rigid restrictions on the export of fleeces at about that time [4]. In times of rapid technological change, many are left behind. Mechanization in the Low Countries and Britain in the nineteenth century permitted spinners in these regions to out-produce those who had not embraced the emerging technologies. There was then a vast opening-up of the supply of raw wool from the western and southern hemispheres. It was the combination of a plentiful supply of raw material and high productivities of people and machines that produced the displacement of the centers of production and sites of the markets changed also. Now, many of the industrial companies then formed have, in turn, been overtaken by new technology and economic changes. The development of synthetic fibers and new processes has created a new situation; the market in wool has declined somewhat even in the last decade. Despite this, the world consumes about 1.5 million tons of wool per year, and its value is greater than the weight might suggest. Australia abolished its price support in the 1980s and prices globally were determined more than before by market forces. In the decade centered on 1990, prices plummeted [5], but supply is now in better balance with demand and there is hope for expansion. China is now a large consumer. A remarkable feature of wool is its ability to recover from deformation over a time, and this gives apparel made from the fibers attractive crease-shedding properties. Also, the rate at which the fiber takes up and disperses moisture is such that it gives clothes made from wool good comfort properties. These inherent properties give wool an attraction that is likely to guarantee it a place in the world market; the main question is how much of that market it will retain. 1.1.5 A brief history of cotton fibers
The use of cotton fibers has been traced back to as far as 3000 bc. Yarns were found in the ruins of Mohenjo-Daro, a city in the Indus valley [2]. Cotton has been known, cultivated, and worked in India since the earliest historical periods. A Hindu Rigveda hymn (c 1500 bc) mentions cotton, and Herodotus (c 450 bc) is said to have mentioned ‘wild trees bearing fleeces as their fruit’. Ancient Egyptians were known to have grown and spun yarns in the seventh century AD. When the Spaniards arrived in America they found cotton being used to make cloth. Cotton was found in prehistoric pueblo ruins in Arizona, and cotton grave cloths from pre-Inca Peru are still in existence. Cotton has remarkable durability in the marketplace; it filled a major role in the industrial revolution and it has formed an alliance with man-made fibers in more recent times. Therefore, it is perhaps best if further discussion of the history of cotton is left to unfold with some of those events. 1.1.6 A brief history of man-made fibers
Ideas about synthetic fiber processes were expressed by Robert Hook (1775) and René de Reaumur (1734); Louis Schwabe extruded glass fibers in 1842. Much of the early work was to develop a means of ‘liquefying’ cellulose to permit extrusion. In 1846, C F Schoenbein prepared nitrocellulose, and George Audemars patented a process for making a material related to rayon from nitrated wood in 1855. Sir Joseph Swan coagulated nitrocellulose...