Sinclair Textiles and Fashion

Materials, Design and Technology
1. Auflage 2014
ISBN: 978-0-85709-561-9
Verlag: Elsevier Science & Techn.
Format: EPUB
Kopierschutz: Adobe DRM (»Systemvoraussetzungen)

E-Book, Englisch, 894 Seiten

Reihe: Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles

This major textbook is designed for students studying textiles and fashion at higher and undergraduate level, as well as those needing a comprehensive and authoritative overview of textile materials and processes. The first part of the book reviews the main types of natural and synthetic fibres and their properties. Part two provides a systematic review of the key processes involved first in converting fibres into yarns and then transforming yarns into fabrics. Part three discusses the range of range of finishing techniques for fabrics. The final part of the book looks specifically at the transformation of fabric into apparel, from design and manufacture to marketing. With contributions from leading experts in their fields, this major book provides the definitive one-volume guide to textile manufacture. - Provides comprehensive coverage of the types and properties of textile fibres to yarn and fabric manufacture, fabric finishing, apparel production and fashion - Focused on the needs of college and undergraduate students studying textiles or fashion courses - Each chapter ends with a summary to emphasise key points, a comprehensive self-review section, and project ideas are also provided

Autoren/Hrsg.

Sinclair, Rose

Inhaltsverzeichnis

1;Front Cover;1
2;The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing;3
3;Textiles and Fashion: Materials, Design and Technology;4
4;Copyright;5
5;Contents;6
6;Contributors;32
7;Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles;34
8;Preface;42
8.1;THE PURPOSE OF THIS BOOK;43
8.2;OVERVIEW OF THE PARTS OF THE BOOK;43
8.3;PART 1;43
8.4;PART 2;43
8.5;PART 3;43
8.6;PART 4;44
8.7;GLOSSARY;44
9;Acknowledgements;46
10;How to Use this Book;48
11;Part 1 - FIBRE TYPES;50
11.1;CHAPTER 1 - UNDERSTANDING TEXTILE FIBRES AND THEIR PROPERTIES: WHAT IS A TEXTILE FIBRE?;52
11.1.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;52
11.1.2;1.1 INTRODUCTION;52
11.1.3;1.2 TYPES OF TEXTILE FIBRES;53
11.1.4;1.3 FIBRES, YARNS AND FABRICS;56
11.1.5;1.4 FIBRE PROPERTIES;58
11.1.6;1.5 FIBRE LENGTH, SHAPE AND DIAMETER;59
11.1.7;1.6 FIBRE COLOUR AND LUSTRE;61
11.1.8;1.7 FIBRE FINENESS;62
11.1.9;1.8 FIBRE STRENGTH, FLEXIBILITY AND ABRASION RESISTANCE;64
11.1.10;1.9 MOISTURE ABSORBENCY;67
11.1.11;1.10 ELECTRICAL PROPERTIES OF FIBRES;68
11.1.12;1.11 THERMAL PROPERTIES OF FIBRES;69
11.1.13;1.12 CHEMICAL REACTIVITY AND RESISTANCE;71
11.1.14;1.13 CASE STUDIES: FROM FIBRE PROPERTIES TO TEXTILE PRODUCTS;71
11.1.15;1.14 SUMMARY;73
11.1.16;1.15 PROJECT IDEAS;73
11.1.17;1.16 REVISION QUESTIONS;74
11.1.18;REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING;74
11.2;Chapter 2 - Natural textile fibres: vegetable fibres;78
11.2.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;78
11.2.2;2.1 INTRODUCTION;78
11.2.3;2.2 COTTON;80
11.2.4;2.3 OTHER SEED FIBRES;89
11.2.5;2.4 BAST FIBRE;92
11.2.6;2.5 OTHER BAST FIBRES;95
11.2.7;2.6 SUSTAINABILITY ISSUES/ECO ISSUES;101
11.2.8;2.7 CASE STUDIES;103
11.2.9;2.8 FUTURE TRENDS;104
11.2.10;2.9 SUMMARY;104
11.2.11;2.10 PROJECT IDEAS;104
11.2.12;2.11 REVISION QUESTIONS;105
11.2.13;REFERENCES;105
11.3;CHAPTER 3 - NATURAL TEXTILE FIBRES: ANIMAL AND SILK FIBRES;106
11.3.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;106
11.3.2;3.1 INTRODUCTION;106
11.3.3;3.2 WOOL FIBRES;107
11.3.4;3.3 SILK FIBRES;111
11.3.5;3.4 OTHER SPECIALTY HAIR FIBRES;120
11.3.6;3.5 APPLICATIONS OF NATURAL PROTEIN FIBRES;123
11.3.7;3.6 SUSTAINABILITY AND ECOLOGICAL ISSUES;124
11.3.8;3.7 FUTURE TRENDS;124
11.3.9;3.8 SUMMARY;125
11.3.10;3.9 PROJECT IDEAS;126
11.3.11;3.10 REVISION QUESTIONS;126
11.3.12;REFERENCES;126
11.4;CHAPTER 4 - SYNTHETIC TEXTILE FIBERS: REGENERATED CELLULOSE FIBERS;128
11.4.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;128
11.4.2;4.1 INTRODUCTION;128
11.4.3;4.2 VISCOSE RAYON;130
11.4.4;4.3 LYOCELL RAYON;134
11.4.5;4.4 CELLULOSE ACETATE;138
11.4.6;4.5 APPLICATIONS;139
11.4.7;4.6 CASE STUDY;140
11.4.8;4.7 FUTURE TRENDS;141
11.4.9;4.8 SUMMARY;142
11.4.10;4.9 PROJECT IDEAS;142
11.4.11;4.10 REVISION QUESTIONS;143
11.4.12;REFERENCES;143
11.5;CHAPTER 5 - SYNTHETIC TEXTILE FIBRES: POLYAMIDE, POLYESTER AND ARAMID FIBRES;146
11.5.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;146
11.5.2;5.1 INTRODUCTION;146
11.5.3;5.2 CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES;147
11.5.4;5.3 POLYAMIDE FIBRES;148
11.5.5;5.4 POLYESTER FIBRES;152
11.5.6;5.5 ARAMID FIBRES;155
11.5.7;5.6 BLENDED FIBRES: KEY ISSUES;158
11.5.8;5.7 CASE STUDY: POLYESTER FIBRES FOR APPAREL AND CLOTHING APPLICATIONS;159
11.5.9;5.8 FUTURE TRENDS;161
11.5.10;5.9 SUMMARY;161
11.5.11;5.10 PROJECT IDEAS;162
11.5.12;5.11 REVISION QUESTIONS;162
11.5.13;5.12 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION AND ADVICE;162
11.5.14;REFERENCES;163
11.6;CHAPTER 6 - SYNTHETIC TEXTILE FIBRES: POLYOLEFIN, ELASTOMERIC AND ACRYLIC FIBRES;164
11.6.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;164
11.6.2;6.1 INTRODUCTION;164
11.6.3;6.2 POLYPROPYLENE (PP) FIBRES;165
11.6.4;6.3 OTHER POLYOLEFIN FIBRES;172
11.6.5;6.4 ACRYLIC FIBRES;172
11.6.6;6.5 MODACRYLIC FIBRES;178
11.6.7;6.6 ELASTOMERIC FIBRES;178
11.6.8;6.7 CASE STUDY: WHY ARE THERE SO MANY END-USES FOR POLYPROPYLENE (PP) FIBRES, BUT SO FEW IN APPAREL?;182
11.6.9;6.8 FUTURE TRENDS;182
11.6.10;6.9 SUMMARY;184
11.6.11;6.10 PROJECT IDEAS;185
11.6.12;6.11 REVISION QUESTIONS;185
11.6.13;6.12 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION AND ADVICE;186
11.6.14;REFERENCES;186
11.7;CHAPTER 7 - SYNTHETIC TEXTILE FIBRES: NON-POLYMER FIBRES;188
11.7.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;188
11.7.2;7.1 INTRODUCTION;188
11.7.3;7.2 CARBON FIBRES;188
11.7.4;7.3 GLASS FIBRES;196
11.7.5;7.4 METALLIC FIBRES;198
11.7.6;7.5 CERAMIC FIBRES;201
11.7.7;7.6 CASE STUDY: THE USE OF CFRP IN SPORTING GOODS;202
11.7.8;7.7 FUTURE TRENDS;202
11.7.9;7.8 SUMMARY POINTS;202
11.7.10;7.9 PROJECT IDEAS;203
11.7.11;7.10 REVISION QUESTIONS;203
11.7.12;REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING;203
12;Part 2 - MANUFACTURING TEXTILES: YARN TO FABRIC;206
12.1;CHAPTER 8 - CONVERSION OF FIBRE TO YARN: AN OVERVIEW;208
12.1.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;208
12.1.2;8.1 INTRODUCTION;208
12.1.3;8.2 CLASSIFICATION OF YARNS;208
12.1.4;8.3 STAPLE-FIBRE YARNS;210
12.1.5;8.4 FILAMENT YARNS;213
12.1.6;8.5 FANCY YARNS;219
12.1.7;8.6 STAPLE-FIBRE YARN MANUFACTURING;225
12.1.8;8.7 FUTURE TRENDS;236
12.1.9;8.8 SUMMARY;236
12.1.10;8.9 PROJECT IDEAS;237
12.1.11;8.10 REVISION QUESTIONS;237
12.1.12;REFERENCES;238
12.2;CHAPTER 9 - FIBRE TO YARN: STAPLE-YARN SPINNING;240
12.2.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;240
12.2.2;9.1 INTRODUCTION;240
12.2.3;9.2 PREPARATION OF COTTON AND OTHER SHORT STAPLE FIBRES;241
12.2.4;9.3 PREPARATION OF WOOL AND OTHER LONG STAPLE FIBRES: THE WOOLLEN SYSTEM;245
12.2.5;9.4 PREPARATION OF WOOL AND OTHER LONG STAPLE FIBRES: THE WORSTED SYSTEM;248
12.2.6;9.5 SPINNING TECHNIQUES FOR STAPLE FIBRES;250
12.2.7;9.6 WRAP-SPINNING TECHNIQUES;257
12.2.8;9.7 FUTURE TRENDS;259
12.2.9;9.8 SUMMARY POINTS;259
12.2.10;9.9 PROJECT IDEAS;260
12.2.11;9.10 REVISION QUESTIONS;260
12.2.12;References and Further Reading;261
12.3;CHAPTER 10 - FIBRE TO YARN: FILAMENT YARN SPINNING;262
12.3.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;262
12.3.2;10.1 INTRODUCTION;262
12.3.3;10.2 FIBRE-EXTRUSION SPINNING;265
12.3.4;10.3 YARN TEXTURING;271
12.3.5;10.4 BULK CONTINUOUS FIBRE (BCF) TECHNOLOGY;280
12.3.6;10.5 PROPERTIES OF CF YARNS;283
12.3.7;10.6 ADDING FUNCTIONALITY TO YARN;291
12.3.8;10.7 APPLICATIONS;296
12.3.9;10.8 FUTURE TRENDS;299
12.3.10;10.9 PROJECT IDEAS;300
12.3.11;10.10 REVISION QUESTIONS;300
12.3.12;REFERENCES;300
12.4;CHAPTER 11 - YARN TO FABRIC: WEAVING;304
12.4.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;304
12.4.2;11.1 INTRODUCTION;304
12.4.3;11.2 LOOMS;304
12.4.4;11.3 MAKING A WARP AND DRESSING THE LOOM;309
12.4.5;11.4 DOCUMENTATION;315
12.4.6;11.5 PATTERN DRAFTING;317
12.4.7;11.6 WEAVE STRUCTURES;320
12.4.8;11.7 DERIVATIVE-WEAVE STRUCTURES;325
12.4.9;11.8 STARTING TO WEAVE;328
12.4.10;11.9 DESIGNING FOR WOVEN TEXTILES;328
12.4.11;11.10 DESIGNING FOR THE JACQUARD LOOM;329
12.4.12;11.11 TAPESTRY WEAVING;330
12.4.13;11.12 CASE STUDY: HONEYCOMB WOVEN STRUCTURES;332
12.4.14;11.13 FINISHING;332
12.4.15;11.14 TIPS FOR WEAVING;333
12.4.16;11.15 FUTURE TRENDS;333
12.4.17;11.16 SUMMARY;334
12.4.18;11.17 REVISION QUESTIONS;335
12.4.19;11.18 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION AND ADVICE;335
12.4.20;FURTHER READING;335
12.5;CHAPTER 12 - YARN TO FABRIC: KNITTING;338
12.5.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;338
12.5.2;12.1 INTRODUCTION;338
12.5.3;12.2 LOOP FORMATION;339
12.5.4;12.3 KNITTING TERMINOLOGY;340
12.5.5;12.4 WEFT-KNITTED STRUCTURES;341
12.5.6;12.5 WARP KNITTED STRUCTURES;343
12.5.7;12.6 KNITTING DEVELOPMENTS;345
12.5.8;12.7 THE IMPACT OF COMPUTERS IN DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY;347
12.5.9;12.8 QUALITY CONTROL;348
12.5.10;12.9 CASE STUDY;349
12.5.11;12.10 FUTURE TRENDS;350
12.5.12;12.11 SUMMARY;351
12.5.13;12.12 PROJECT IDEAS;352
12.5.14;12.13 REVISION QUESTIONS;352
12.5.15;12.14 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION AND ADVICE;353
12.5.16;REFERENCES;354
12.6;CHAPTER 13 - FIBRE TO FABRIC: NONWOVEN FABRICS;356
12.6.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;356
12.6.2;13.1 INTRODUCTION;356
12.6.3;13.2 TECHNOLOGIES FOR THE FORMATION OF NONWOVEN FABRICS;357
12.6.4;13.3 CHARACTERISTICS OF NONWOVEN FABRIC STRUCTURE AND PROPERTIES;364
12.6.5;13.4 PROPERTIES AND PERFORMANCE OF NONWOVEN FABRICS;376
12.6.6;13.5 METHODS FOR THE EVALUATION OF NONWOVEN FABRIC STRUCTURE, PROPERTIES AND PERFORMANCE;377
12.6.7;13.6 NONWOVEN FABRICS AND THEIR APPLICATIONS;378
12.6.8;13.7 NONWOVEN FABRICS IN FASHION;379
12.6.9;13.8 FUTURE TRENDS;381
12.6.10;13.9 PROJECT IDEAS;381
12.6.11;13.10 REVISION QUESTIONS;381
12.6.12;13.11 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION;382
12.6.13;REFERENCES;382
12.7;CHAPTER 14 - YARN TO FABRIC: SPECIALIST FABRIC STRUCTURES;386
12.7.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;386
12.7.2;14.1 INTRODUCTION;386
12.7.3;14.2 TRIAXIAL FABRICS;386
12.7.4;14.3 PILE FABRICS;388
12.7.5;14.4 KNOTTED FABRICS;390
12.7.6;14.5 BRAIDED FABRICS;393
12.7.7;14.6 THREE-DIMENSIONAL FABRICS AND FUTURE DEVELOPMENTS;395
12.7.8;14.7 SUMMARY;401
12.7.9;14.8 PROJECT IDEAS;401
12.7.10;14.9 REVISION QUESTIONS;401
12.7.11;REFERENCES AND SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION;402
12.8;CHAPTER 15 - YARN TO FABRIC: INTELLIGENT TEXTILES;404
12.8.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;404
12.8.2;15.1 INTRODUCTION;404
12.8.3;15.2 WHAT ARE INTELLIGENT TEXTILES USED FOR?;405
12.8.4;15.3 CASE STUDY: BIOMIMETICS AND INTELLIGENT TEXTILES;417
12.8.5;15.4 FUTURE TRENDS;418
12.8.6;15.5 SUMMARY;422
12.8.7;15.6 PROJECT IDEAS;423
12.8.8;15.7 REVISION QUESTIONS;424
12.8.9;15.8 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION AND ADVICE;424
12.8.10;REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING;424
13;Part 3 - FABRIC FINISHING AND APPLICATIONS;426
13.1;CHAPTER 16 - FABRIC FINISHING: JOINING FABRICS USING STITCHED SEAMS;428
13.1.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;428
13.1.2;16.1 INTRODUCTION;428
13.1.3;16.2 THE STITCH;429
13.1.4;16.3 THE SEAM;431
13.1.5;16.4 SEWING MACHINES;434
13.1.6;16.5 SEAM QUALITY PROBLEMS;451
13.1.7;16.6 FUTURE TRENDS;454
13.1.8;16.7 SUMMARY;458
13.1.9;16.8 CASE STUDY AND PROJECT IDEA;458
13.1.10;16.9 REVISION QUESTIONS;459
13.1.11;REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING;459
13.2;CHAPTER 17 - JOINING FABRICS: FASTENINGS;462
13.2.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;462
13.2.2;17.1 INTRODUCTION;462
13.2.3;17.2 ZIPS;462
13.2.4;17.3 BUTTONS;471
13.2.5;17.4 HOOK-AND-LOOP FASTENERS;481
13.2.6;17.5 PRESS FASTENERS;484
13.2.7;17.6 CORDS, TIES AND BELTS;495
13.2.8;17.7 HOOK-AND-EYE FASTENERS;497
13.2.9;17.8 HOOK-AND-BAR FASTENERS;500
13.2.10;17.9 BUCKLES AND ADJUSTABLE FASTENERS;503
13.2.11;17.10 SUMMARY;505
13.2.12;17.11 PROJECT IDEAS;505
13.2.13;17.12 Revision Questions;506
13.2.14;17.13 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION;506
13.2.15;REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING;506
13.3;CHAPTER 18 - FABRIC FINISHING: PRETREATMENT/TEXTILE WET PROCESSING;508
13.3.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;508
13.3.2;18.1 INTRODUCTION;508
13.3.3;18.2 PROCESSING METHODS;509
13.3.4;18.3 FABRIC PREPARATION PROCESSES;510
13.3.5;18.4 QUALITY CONTROL IN FABRIC PREPARATION;515
13.3.6;18.5 ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT AND SUSTAINABILITY OF FABRIC PREPARATION;516
13.3.7;18.6 RESEARCH AND FUTURE TRENDS;516
13.3.8;18.7 SUMMARY;517
13.3.9;18.8 CASE STUDY;517
13.3.10;18.9 PROJECT IDEAS;518
13.3.11;18.10 REVISION QUESTIONS;518
13.3.12;18.11 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION;518
13.3.13;REFERENCES;518
13.4;CHAPTER 19 - FABRIC FINISHING: DYEING AND COLOURING;524
13.4.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;524
13.4.2;19.1 INTRODUCTION;524
13.4.3;19.2 COLOUR THEORY;524
13.4.4;19.3 SELECTION OF DYES;526
13.4.5;19.4 THE DYEING PROCESS;529
13.4.6;19.5 CLASSES OF DYE FOR DIFFERENT FIBRE TYPES;534
13.4.7;19.6 STRENGTHS AND WEAKNESSES OF NATURAL AND SYNTHETIC DYES;543
13.4.8;19.7 ENSURING QUALITY AND EFFECTIVENESS OF DYEING;544
13.4.9;19.8 ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF DYEING;545
13.4.10;19.9 RESEARCH AND FUTURE TRENDS;548
13.4.11;19.10 SUMMARY;549
13.4.12;19.11 CASE STUDY: REACTIVE DYEING OF KNITTED COTTON GARMENTS;549
13.4.13;19.12 PROJECT IDEAS;552
13.4.14;19.13 REVISION QUESTIONS;553
13.4.15;19.14 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION;554
13.4.16;REFERENCES;554
13.5;CHAPTER 20 - FABRIC FINISHING: PRINTING TEXTILES;556
13.5.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;556
13.5.2;20.1 INTRODUCTION;556
13.5.3;20.2 DIRECT PRINTING;557
13.5.4;20.3 OTHER PRINTING TECHNIQUES;560
13.5.5;20.4 TRADITIONAL PRINTING METHODS;562
13.5.6;20.5 SCREEN PRINTING;564
13.5.7;20.6 TRANSFER PRINTING;568
13.5.8;20.7 DIGITAL INKJET PRINTING;569
13.5.9;20.8 IMPACT OF CAD/CAM ON THE DESIGN OF PRINTED TEXTILES;572
13.5.10;20.9 RESEARCH AND FUTURE TRENDS;574
13.5.11;20.10 SUMMARY;575
13.5.12;20.11 CASE STUDY;575
13.5.13;20.12 PROJECT IDEAS;576
13.5.14;20.13 REVISION QUESTIONS;577
13.5.15;20.14 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION AND ADVICE;577
13.5.16;REFERENCES;578
13.6;CHAPTER 21 - APPLICATIONS OF TEXTILE PRODUCTS;580
13.6.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;580
13.6.2;21.1 INTRODUCTION;580
13.6.3;21.2 APPAREL;581
13.6.4;21.3 FURNISHING OR INTERIOR TEXTILES, INCLUDING HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS;583
13.6.5;21.4 TECHNICAL TEXTILES;585
13.6.6;21.5 TEXTILE ART;587
13.6.7;21.6 TEXTILE INDUSTRY;588
13.6.8;21.7 CASE STUDY: TRADITIONAL BEDOUIN AL SADU HAND-WOVEN PRODUCTS AND CONTEMPORARY DIGITAL APPLICATIONS;589
13.6.9;21.8 FUTURE TRENDS;591
13.6.10;21.9 SUMMARY;592
13.6.11;21.10 REVISION QUESTIONS;592
13.6.12;21.11 SOURCES OF INFORMATION;593
13.6.13;FURTHER READING;593
13.7;CHAPTER 22 - SUSTAINABLE TEXTILE PRODUCTION;596
13.7.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;596
13.7.2;22.1 INTRODUCTION;596
13.7.3;22.2 KEY ISSUES IN SUSTAINABILITY;597
13.7.4;22.3 THE TEXTILE SUPPLY CHAIN;598
13.7.5;22.4 ASSESSING THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF THE TEXTILE SUPPLY CHAIN;602
13.7.6;22.5 MINIMISING THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF THE TEXTILE SUPPLY CHAIN;603
13.7.7;22.6 CASE STUDY: CREATING SUSTAINABLE AND SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE FASHION;605
13.7.8;22.7 SUMMARY AND PROJECT IDEAS;607
13.7.9;22.8 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION AND ADVICE;608
13.7.10;REFERENCES;609
14;Part 4 - DEVELOPING TEXTILE PRODUCTS: THE CASE OF APPAREL;610
14.1;CHAPTER 23 - MATERIAL CULTURE: SOCIAL CHANGE, CULTURE, FASHION AND TEXTILES IN EUROPE;612
14.1.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;612
14.1.2;23.1 INTRODUCTION;612
14.1.3;23.2 ART AND SOCIETY;613
14.1.4;23.3 POLITICS;624
14.1.5;23.4 WAR;633
14.1.6;23.5 IMPACT OF CULTURE ON DESIGN, FASHION AND TEXTILES;638
14.1.7;23.6 DEFINITIONS OF TEXTILE CULTURE AND FASHION CULTURE: ARE THEY THE SAME?;646
14.1.8;23.7 PROJECT IDEAS;649
14.1.9;23.8 REVISION QUESTIONS;649
14.1.10;23.9 FURTHER READING;649
14.1.11;REFERENCES;651
14.1.12;ELECTRONIC SOURCES;652
14.1.13;Art and Society;652
14.1.14;Technological Advancements;652
14.1.15;Case Study;652
14.1.16;Sustainability and Ethical Fashion;652
14.2;CHAPTER 24 - FASHION AND CULTURE: GLOBAL CULTURE AND FASHION;654
14.2.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;654
14.2.2;24.1 INTRODUCTION;654
14.2.3;24.2 IMPACT OF CULTURE IN EUROPEAN AND NON-EUROPEAN ARENAS;655
14.2.4;24.3 CASE STUDY;656
14.2.5;24.4 FUTURE TRENDS;668
14.2.6;24.5 SUMMARY POINTS;678
14.2.7;24.6 PROJECT IDEAS;679
14.2.8;24.7 REVISION QUESTIONS;679
14.2.9;24.8 FURTHER READING;680
14.2.10;REFERENCES;681
14.2.11;ELECTRONIC SOURCES;682
14.2.12;Art and Society;682
14.2.13;Technological Advancements;682
14.2.14;Case Study;682
14.2.15;Sustainability and Ethical Fashion;683
14.3;CHAPTER 25 - FASHION AND THE FASHION INDUSTRY;684
14.3.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;684
14.3.2;25.1 INTRODUCTION;684
14.3.3;25.2 EMERGENCE, DEVELOPMENT AND CHANGE IN FASHION;685
14.3.4;25.3 THE STANDARD FASHION-TREND CYCLE;687
14.3.5;25.4 WHY FASHION CHANGES?;688
14.3.6;25.5 REVISION QUESTIONS;694
14.3.7;25.6 SUMMARY POINTS;694
14.3.8;MAGAZINES/PERIODICALS;694
14.3.9;REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING;695
14.3.10;WEBSITES;696
14.4;CHAPTER 26 - VISUAL DESIGN TECHNIQUES FOR FASHION;698
14.4.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;698
14.4.2;26.1 INTRODUCTION;698
14.4.3;26.2 WHY CONSUMERS BUY NEW DESIGNS;700
14.4.4;26.3 MARKET RESEARCH METHODS FOR IDENTIFYING EMERGING CONSUMER NEEDS;701
14.4.5;26.4 FINDING INSPIRATION;702
14.4.6;26.5 AESTHETIC QUALITIES IN A GOOD DESIGN;704
14.4.7;26.6 DESIGN TOOLS;706
14.4.8;26.7 MOVING FROM SAMPLE TO PRODUCTION;707
14.4.9;26.8 FUTURE TRENDS: IMPACT OF NEW TECHNOLOGIES/PROCESSES;707
14.4.10;26.9 CASE STUDY: THE DEVELOPMENT OF A GARMENT;708
14.4.11;26.10 SUMMARY;715
14.4.12;26.11 PROJECT IDEAS;716
14.4.13;26.12 REVISION QUESTIONS;716
14.4.14;26.13 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION AND ADVICE;717
14.4.15;REFERENCES;717
14.4.16;FURTHER READING;717
14.5;CHAPTER 27 - COMPUTER-AIDED DESIGN (CAD) AND COMPUTER- AIDED MANUFACTURING (CAM) OF APPAREL AND OTHER TEXTILE PRODUCTS;720
14.5.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;720
14.5.2;27.1 INTRODUCTION;720
14.5.3;27.2 FASHION AND TEXTILE SOFTWARE PROGRAMS;722
14.5.4;27.3 USING CAD TO DESIGN FASHION PRODUCTS;723
14.5.5;27.4 OTHER USES OF CAD IN FASHION DESIGN;727
14.5.6;27.5 CAM IN FASHION AND TEXTILES;735
14.5.7;27.6 CASE STUDIES: FASHION DESIGNERS INTERVIEWED BY SANDRA BURKE;740
14.5.8;27.7 SUMMARY POINTS AND PROJECT IDEAS;749
14.5.9;27.8 REVISION QUESTIONS;749
14.5.10;27.9 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION AND ADVICE;749
14.5.11;REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING;752
14.6;CHAPTER 28 - ADDING FUNCTIONALITY TO GARMENTS;754
14.6.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;754
14.6.2;28.1 INTRODUCTION;754
14.6.3;28.2 FACTORS AFFECTING GARMENT FUNCTION;755
14.6.4;28.3 IMPROVING FABRIC HANDLE AND TAILORABILITY;755
14.6.5;28.4 REDUCING WRINKLING;761
14.6.6;28.5 REDUCING PILLING;768
14.6.7;28.6 REDUCING BAGGING;773
14.6.8;28.7 IMPROVING FABRIC AND GARMENT DRAPE;775
14.6.9;28.8 IMPROVING FABRIC AND GARMENT DURABILITY;779
14.6.10;28.9 RESEARCH AND FUTURE TRENDS;784
14.6.11;28.10 SUMMARY;784
14.6.12;28.11 PROJECT IDEAS;785
14.6.13;28.12 REVISION QUESTIONS;785
14.6.14;REFERENCES;785
14.7;CHAPTER 29 - IMPROVING THE COMFORT OF GARMENTS;788
14.7.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;788
14.7.2;29.1 INTRODUCTION;788
14.7.3;29.2 TACTILE COMFORT;789
14.7.4;29.3 THERMO-PHYSIOLOGICAL (THERMAL) COMFORT;791
14.7.5;29.4 MEASURING PHYSIOLOGICAL COMFORT;795
14.7.6;29.5 PSYCHOLOGICAL COMFORT;800
14.7.7;29.6 IMPROVING WATERPROOFING AND BREATHABILITY;802
14.7.8;29.7 RESEARCH AND FUTURE TRENDS;807
14.7.9;29.8 SUMMARY;808
14.7.10;29.9 CASE STUDY;808
14.7.11;29.10 PROJECT IDEAS;809
14.7.12;29.11 REVISION QUESTIONS;809
14.7.13;REFERENCES;809
14.8;CHAPTER 30 - THE MARKETING OF FASHION;812
14.8.1;LEARNING OBJECTIVES;812
14.8.2;30.1 INTRODUCTION;812
14.8.3;30.2 WHAT IS MARKETING?;812
14.8.4;30.3 THE MARKETING OF FASHION;813
14.8.5;30.4 TARGETING A MARKET;816
14.8.6;30.5 BRANDING;817
14.8.7;30.6 THE TRADITIONAL MEDIA CHANNELS;818
14.8.8;30.7 NEW TECHNOLOGIES AS MEDIA CHANNELS;819
14.8.9;30.8 THE MARKETING PLAN;823
14.8.10;30.9 FUTURE TRENDS;840
14.8.11;30.10 SUMMARY POINTS;843
14.8.12;30.11 PROJECT IDEAS AND REVISION QUESTIONS;844
14.8.13;30.12 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION;844
14.8.14;REFERENCES;846
14.9;CHAPTER 31 - THE CARE OF APPAREL PRODUCTS;848
14.9.1;31.1 INTRODUCTION;849
14.9.2;31.2 WEAR OF GARMENTS;850
14.9.3;31.3 STAINS;857
14.9.4;31.4 LAUNDERING;858
14.9.5;31.5 CARE LABELLING;862
14.9.6;31.6 CLOTHING STORAGE;867
14.9.7;31.7 CONCLUSIONS AND FUTURE TRENDS;867
14.9.8;31.8 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION;868
14.9.9;31.9 SUMMARY POINTS;868
14.9.10;31.10 PROJECT IDEAS;868
14.9.11;31.11 REVISION QUESTIONS;868
15;GLOSSARY;872
16;Index;882

Leseproben

Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles
1 Watson’s textile design and colour Seventh edition
Edited by Z. Grosicki 2 Watson’s advanced textile design
Edited by Z. Grosicki 3 Weaving Second edition
P. R. Lord and M. H. Mohamed 4 Handbook of textile fibres Volume 1: Natural fibres
J. Gordon Cook 5 Handbook of textile fibres Volume 2: Man-made fibres
J. Gordon Cook 6 Recycling textile and plastic waste
Edited by A. R. Horrocks 7 New fibers Second edition
T. Hongu and G. O. Phillips 8 Atlas of fibre fracture and damage to textiles Second edition
J. W. S. Hearle, B. Lomas and W. D. Cooke 9 Ecotextile ‘98
Edited by A. R. Horrocks 10 Physical testing of textiles
B. P. Saville 11 Geometric symmetry in patterns and tilings
C. E. Horne 12 Handbook of technical textiles
Edited by A. R. Horrocks and S. C. Anand 13 Textiles in automotive engineering
W. Fung and J. M. Hardcastle 14 Handbook of textile design
J. Wilson 15 High-performance fibres
Edited by J. W. S. Hearle 16 Knitting technology Third edition
D. J. Spencer 17 Medical textiles
Edited by S. C. Anand 18 Regenerated cellulose fibres
Edited by C. Woodings 19 Silk, mohair, cashmere and other luxury fibres
Edited by R. R. Franck 20 Smart fibres, fabrics and clothing
Edited by X. M. Tao 21 Yarn texturing technology
J. W. S. Hearle, L. Hollick and D. K. Wilson 22 Encyclopedia of textile finishing
H-K. Rouette 23 Coated and laminated textiles
W. Fung 24 Fancy yarns
R. H. Gong and R. M. Wright 25 Wool: Science and technology
Edited by W. S. Simpson and G. Crawshaw 26 Dictionary of textile finishing
H-K. Rouette 27 Environmental impact of textiles
K. Slater 28 Handbook of yarn production
P. R. Lord 29 Textile processing with enzymes
Edited by A. Cavaco-Paulo and G. Gübitz 30 The China and Hong Kong denim industry
Y. Li, L. Yao and K. W. Yeung 31 The World Trade Organization and international denim trading
Y. Li, Y. Shen, L. Yao and E. Newton 32 Chemical finishing of textiles
W. D. Schindler and P. J. Hauser 33 Clothing appearance and fit
J. Fan, W. Yu and L. Hunter 34 Handbook of fibre rope technology
H. A. McKenna, J. W. S. Hearle and N. O’Hear 35 Structure and mechanics of woven fabrics
J. Hu 36 Synthetic fibres: Nylon, polyester, acrylic, polyolefin
Edited by J. E. McIntyre 37 Woollen and worsted woven fabric design
E. G. Gilligan 38 Analytical electrochemistry in textiles
P. Westbroek, G. Priniotakis and P. Kiekens 39 Bast and other plant fibres
R. R. Franck 40 Chemical testing of textiles
Edited by Q. Fan 41 Design and manufacture of textile composites
Edited by A. C. Long 42 Effect of mechanical and physical properties on fabric hand
Edited by H. M. Behery 43 New millennium fibers
T. Hongu, M. Takigami and G. O. Phillips 44 Textiles for protection
Edited by R. A. Scott 45 Textiles in sport
Edited by R. Shishoo 46 Wearable electronics and photonics
Edited by X. M. Tao 47 Biodegradable and sustainable fibres
Edited by R. S. Blackburn 48 Medical textiles and biomaterials for healthcare
Edited by S. C. Anand, M. Miraftab, S. Rajendran and J. F. Kennedy 49 Total colour management in textiles
Edited by J. Xin 50 Recycling in textiles
Edited by Y. Wang 51 Clothing biosensory engineering
Y. Li and A. S. W. Wong 52 Biomechanical engineering of textiles and clothing
Edited by Y. Li and D. X-Q. Dai 53 Digital printing of textiles
Edited by H. Ujiie 54 Intelligent textiles and clothing
Edited by H. R. Mattila 55 Innovation and technology of women’s intimate apparel
W. Yu, J. Fan, S. C. Harlock and S. P. Ng 56 Thermal and moisture transport in fibrous materials
Edited by N. Pan and P. Gibson 57 Geosynthetics in civil engineering
Edited by R. W. Sarsby 58 Handbook of nonwovens
Edited by S. Russell 59 Cotton: Science and technology
Edited by S. Gordon and Y-L. Hsieh 60 Ecotextiles
Edited by M. Miraftab and A. R. Horrocks 61 Composite forming technologies
Edited by A. C. Long 62 Plasma technology for textiles
Edited by R. Shishoo 63 Smart textiles for medicine and healthcare
Edited by L. Van Langenhove 64 Sizing in clothing
Edited by S. Ashdown 65 Shape memory polymers and textiles
J. Hu 66 Environmental aspects of textile dyeing
Edited by R. Christie 67 Nanofibers and nanotechnology in textiles
Edited by P. Brown and K. Stevens 68 Physical properties of textile fibres Fourth edition
W. E. Morton and J. W. S. Hearle 69 Advances in apparel production
Edited by C. Fairhurst 70 Advances in fire retardant materials
Edited by A. R. Horrocks and D. Price 71 Polyesters and polyamides
Edited by B. L. Deopura, R. Alagirusamy, M. Joshi and B. S. Gupta 72 Advances in wool technology
Edited by N. A. G. Johnson and I. Russell 73 Military textiles
Edited by E. Wilusz 74 3D fibrous assemblies: Properties, applications and modelling of three-dimensional textile structures
J. Hu 75 Medical and healthcare textiles
Edited by S. C. Anand, J. F. Kennedy, M. Miraftab and S. Rajendran 76 Fabric testing
Edited by J. Hu 77 Biologically inspired textiles
Edited by A. Abbott and M. Ellison 78 Friction in textile materials
Edited by B. S. Gupta 79 Textile advances in the automotive industry
Edited by R. Shishoo 80 Structure and mechanics of textile fibre assemblies
Edited by P. Schwartz 81 Engineering textiles: Integrating the design and manufacture of textile products
Edited by Y. E. El-Mogahzy 82 Polyolefin fibres: Industrial and medical applications
Edited by S. C. O. Ugbolue 83 Smart clothes and wearable technology
Edited by J. McCann and D. Bryson 84 Identification of textile fibres
Edited by M. Houck 85 Advanced textiles for wound...